Keeping Your Kitten Comfortable
Clean the litter box every day
Kittens do not like to relieve themselves in a dirty area, if you don't change the litter then the kittens will find a cleaner place, like your bed. To clean the litter box just scoop out the waste and throw it away. You can leave a small bit of feces in the litter box, changing it frequently during the first few weeks. This helps the kitten recognize what the box is for.
Clean the entire box frequently
Once a week you will need to completely dump the contents of the litter pan and give it a thorough cleaning. Once the pan is emptied out, wash it with non-hazardous cleaning solutions, for information on this visit my favorite shopping location www.livingmygreenlife.com. Now rinse the pan, dry it and refill with clean litter. It can be tempting to leave scoopable litter for longer than one week due to the ease of removing, however even scoopable litter needs to be completely emptied and replaced frequently.
Clean accident areas thoroughly
If your kitten or cat uses the bathroom outside of the litter box, be sure that you completely clean the area, removing traces of urine and feces. This should help reduce repeat accidents.
Consider removing large potted plants from your home
If you find that your kitten is using the dirt in your potted plants for a toilet, you may need to remove them or cover the dirt with foil during litter training.
Feed the kitten at regular times
This will help you predict when she will need to use the litter box. Kittens generally feel the urge to go about 20 minutes after they eat. When you think she has the urge, take her to the box and let her climb in.
Wednesday, July 27, 2016
Tuesday, July 26, 2016
How to Litter Train a Kitten - Step 2
Place the box in a peaceful location
Don't put the litter box in a high-traffic area of your house. The ideal location is easily accessible, offers plenty of privacy, and is free of sudden noises and movements. The box should be in an area that the kitten spends a lot of time in. Do not put the litter box in the laundry room, the sudden noises of the washer and drying could cause of fear of using the litter box. If you have to move the litter box while you train the kitten you should only move it a few feet at a time. Do not move the box from room to room.
Place the kitten in the filled litter box.
As soon as you bring the kitten home, place her in the box so she can get use to the smell and feel of the kitty litter. Let her spend a few minutes in there, even if she doesn't go to the bathroom the first time. Continue to place the kitten in the box after it eats, wakes up or any other time you think she is searching for something. If she squats anywhere other than the litter box please her in the box immediately. Some kittens will understand the purpose of the litter box instantly and require no training, others will need to be placed in box as many as 10 times. Avoid showing our kitten the digging motion that cats use to bury their waste as it may frighten them.
Use praise, not punishment
As the kitten grows used to the litter box and starts using it as her toilet, praise her each time she goes by petting her. Do not discipline her while she is in the box, or she might start associated the box as punishment. Kittens are not like dogs, they do not respond well to having their noses rubbed in a mess. If she has an accident, let her sniff the mess, then gently lift her and put her in the box. Never spank or yell at a kitten to punish her. It will only make her afraid and cause to her to hiss and bite.
Provide enough litter box.
If possible, you should have one litter box for each cat in your house, plus an additional litter box.
Consider a confinement period.
When first introduce a kitten to your home, you may want to confine her to a small area for the first few weeks. This can help her acclimate slowly to her new environment and will giver her easy access to her litter box. Keep the litter box at the opposite end of where the food and bedding are.
Don't put the litter box in a high-traffic area of your house. The ideal location is easily accessible, offers plenty of privacy, and is free of sudden noises and movements. The box should be in an area that the kitten spends a lot of time in. Do not put the litter box in the laundry room, the sudden noises of the washer and drying could cause of fear of using the litter box. If you have to move the litter box while you train the kitten you should only move it a few feet at a time. Do not move the box from room to room.
Place the kitten in the filled litter box.
As soon as you bring the kitten home, place her in the box so she can get use to the smell and feel of the kitty litter. Let her spend a few minutes in there, even if she doesn't go to the bathroom the first time. Continue to place the kitten in the box after it eats, wakes up or any other time you think she is searching for something. If she squats anywhere other than the litter box please her in the box immediately. Some kittens will understand the purpose of the litter box instantly and require no training, others will need to be placed in box as many as 10 times. Avoid showing our kitten the digging motion that cats use to bury their waste as it may frighten them.
Use praise, not punishment
As the kitten grows used to the litter box and starts using it as her toilet, praise her each time she goes by petting her. Do not discipline her while she is in the box, or she might start associated the box as punishment. Kittens are not like dogs, they do not respond well to having their noses rubbed in a mess. If she has an accident, let her sniff the mess, then gently lift her and put her in the box. Never spank or yell at a kitten to punish her. It will only make her afraid and cause to her to hiss and bite.
Provide enough litter box.
If possible, you should have one litter box for each cat in your house, plus an additional litter box.
Consider a confinement period.
When first introduce a kitten to your home, you may want to confine her to a small area for the first few weeks. This can help her acclimate slowly to her new environment and will giver her easy access to her litter box. Keep the litter box at the opposite end of where the food and bedding are.
Tuesday, July 19, 2016
How to Litter Train a Kitten - Step 1
Purchasing Supplies
Choose a Large Litter Box
Small litter boxes are available for tiny kittens, but kittens grow up so fast that you'll have to retrain the kitten, so it's better to start with a box you plan to use for a long time. Kittens have no trouble getting into a large litter box, as long as one side is low enough that they can step inside. If you find a great box but aren't sure whether the kitten will be able to climb inside, use a piece of plywood or another flat material with good traction to make a little ramp. Affix it to the side of the litter box using duct tape, and remove it when the kitten has grown big enough to get inside without help.
Choose an Enclosed Litter Box
Some litter boxes have an enclosure around them. The advantage of the enclosed litter box is that it can contain the litter for an enthusiastic cat that likes to kick and dig and it may cut down smells if you have the box in a small area. Some cats even feel more protected in an enclosed litter box. Be sure that the enclosed litter box is large, cats need enough room to comfortably turn around inside the box. Most cats have a behavioral need to sniff their feces and then bury them, and the box needs to allow plenty of room for that. Some cats do not like enclosed boxes when initially introduced to them. You can ease the transition by removing the swinging door until your cat becomes acclimated to the box.
Buy Kitty Litter
There are many types of litter to chose from, and any litter is fine for most juvenile or adults cats (8 months or older.) Select a litter that is as dust-free as possible, since dust can irritate cats' lungs. You might want to keep the following factors in mind as you make your choice.
- Use unscented litter if possible. Kittens and cats may not like perfumed litter, if the scent is overpowering, they may use the bathroom somewhere else. Additionally, some scents could irritate a cat's nose and eyes or cause problems for cats who are prone to respiratory problems.
- Consider a scoopable litter. Scoopable litter has become a popular choice, since it makes removing the kitten's waste quite easy. Be aware that there is some concern that a cat could become sick from ingesting scoopable litter, but that there is little or no evidence of this happening.
- Select a litter that is widely available. Some cats become accustomed to a specific litter and may not recognize the tray as a toilet unless it contains their usual litter.
Purchase a Scooper and Drop Cloth
The last things you need to get ready for litter training your kitten are a scooper for removing waste from the litter box and a drop cloth to place under the box to prevent stray litter from soiling your house.
Choose a Large Litter Box
Small litter boxes are available for tiny kittens, but kittens grow up so fast that you'll have to retrain the kitten, so it's better to start with a box you plan to use for a long time. Kittens have no trouble getting into a large litter box, as long as one side is low enough that they can step inside. If you find a great box but aren't sure whether the kitten will be able to climb inside, use a piece of plywood or another flat material with good traction to make a little ramp. Affix it to the side of the litter box using duct tape, and remove it when the kitten has grown big enough to get inside without help.
Choose an Enclosed Litter Box
Some litter boxes have an enclosure around them. The advantage of the enclosed litter box is that it can contain the litter for an enthusiastic cat that likes to kick and dig and it may cut down smells if you have the box in a small area. Some cats even feel more protected in an enclosed litter box. Be sure that the enclosed litter box is large, cats need enough room to comfortably turn around inside the box. Most cats have a behavioral need to sniff their feces and then bury them, and the box needs to allow plenty of room for that. Some cats do not like enclosed boxes when initially introduced to them. You can ease the transition by removing the swinging door until your cat becomes acclimated to the box.
Buy Kitty Litter
There are many types of litter to chose from, and any litter is fine for most juvenile or adults cats (8 months or older.) Select a litter that is as dust-free as possible, since dust can irritate cats' lungs. You might want to keep the following factors in mind as you make your choice.
- Use unscented litter if possible. Kittens and cats may not like perfumed litter, if the scent is overpowering, they may use the bathroom somewhere else. Additionally, some scents could irritate a cat's nose and eyes or cause problems for cats who are prone to respiratory problems.
- Consider a scoopable litter. Scoopable litter has become a popular choice, since it makes removing the kitten's waste quite easy. Be aware that there is some concern that a cat could become sick from ingesting scoopable litter, but that there is little or no evidence of this happening.
- Select a litter that is widely available. Some cats become accustomed to a specific litter and may not recognize the tray as a toilet unless it contains their usual litter.
Purchase a Scooper and Drop Cloth
The last things you need to get ready for litter training your kitten are a scooper for removing waste from the litter box and a drop cloth to place under the box to prevent stray litter from soiling your house.
Monday, July 18, 2016
How to Stop Your Dogs Chewing Problem!
Sooner or later every pet owner returns home to find some unexpected damage inflicted by his or her dog. Although dogs make great use of their vision and sense of smell to explore the world, one of their favorite ways to take in new information is to put their mouths to work. much like an infant.
Understanding Why Your Dog Chew!
Puppies, like infants and toddlers, explore their world by putting objects in their mouths. And, like babies, they teethe for about six months, which usually creates some discomfort. Chewing not only facilitates teething but also makes sore gums feel better. Adult dogs may engage in destructive chewing for any number of reasons. In order to deal with the behavior, you must first determine why your dog is chewing—and remember, he's not doing it to spite you. Possible reasons for destructive chewing include:
- As a puppy, he wasn't taught what to chew and what not to chew.
- He's bored.
- He suffers from separation anxiety.
- His behavior is fear-related.
- He wants attention.
If you don't want it in your dog's mouth, don't make it available. Keep clothing, shoes, books, trash, eyeglasses and remote controls out of your dog's reach. Keep him with you on his leash in the house so he can't make a mistake out of your sight. Confine him when you're unable to keep an eye on him. Choose a "safe place" that's dog-proof, and provide fresh water and "safe" toys. If your dog is crate trained, you may also place him in his crate for short periods of time.
Your dog won't know how to behave if you don't teach him alternatives to inappropriate behavior, and he can't learn these when he's in the yard by himself.
Give your dog plenty of physical and mental exercise.
Give your dog is bored, he'll find something to do to amuse himself and you probably won't like the choices he makes. On the other hand, a tired dog is a good dog, so make sure he gets lots of physical and mental activity. The amount of exercise should be based on his age, health and breed characteristics. If you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn't, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise. Offer him an acceptable chew toy instead, and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.
Give your dog is bored, he'll find something to do to amuse himself and you probably won't like the choices he makes. On the other hand, a tired dog is a good dog, so make sure he gets lots of physical and mental activity. The amount of exercise should be based on his age, health and breed characteristics. If you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn't, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise. Offer him an acceptable chew toy instead, and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.
Build a toy obsession in your dog.
Use his toys to feed him. At mealtimes, fill a Kong-type toy with his kibble.
Use his toys to feed him. At mealtimes, fill a Kong-type toy with his kibble.
Make items unpleasant to your dog.
Furniture and other items can be coated with a taste deterrent (such as Bitter Apple®) to make them unappealing.
Furniture and other items can be coated with a taste deterrent (such as Bitter Apple®) to make them unappealing.
Offer your dog a treat in exchange for the item in his mouth.
As your dog catches on to this idea, you can add the command "Give" as his cue to release the object in exchange for the yummy treat.
As your dog catches on to this idea, you can add the command "Give" as his cue to release the object in exchange for the yummy treat.
Don't chase your dog
If he grabs an object and runs. If you chase him, you are only giving your dog what he wants. Being chased by his human is fun! Instead call him to you or offer him a treat.
If he grabs an object and runs. If you chase him, you are only giving your dog what he wants. Being chased by his human is fun! Instead call him to you or offer him a treat.
Saturday, July 16, 2016
Your Dog & Arthritis
Some dog arthritis pain relief medication can be bought over the counter. There are several products on the market for which you do not need a medical prescription, but it is recommended to use them in low doses only. If the pain persists, you should consult your veterinarian for prescription medication. Some anti-inflammatory medication that you can buy over the counter can have serious side effects, so if you notice any changes in your dog after administering over the counter medicine, call your veterinarian. Three medicines that you can give your dog are listed below.
- Anti-inflammatory medication (Aspirin)
- Glucosamine and Chondroitin
- Acetaminophen (Tylenol)
Aspirin is the most widely used pain killer. It is often recommended in dogs with arthritis, since it reduces both the inflammation and the pain. However, you should be aware that aspirin can have serious side effects in dogs, such as stomach ulcers or liver toxicity.
It is recommended to administer aspirin with food.
Glucosamine and chondroitin are actually substances to be found in the cartilage of every animal, so administering these drugs works like giving a supplement to your dog. Glucosamine and chondroitin help in dogs with arthritis and can be used as long term treatment since they do not have any serious side effects.
In very rare cases they can cause nausea, vomiting and diarrhea, but these symptoms disappear if the dosage is decreased or if medication is administered with food.
Acetaminophen can also be used, but only in very small doses, or otherwise it can be lethal. Acetaminophen only stops pain and it does not have any anti-inflammatory properties. In order to avoid mistakes in choosing the right pain killer or administer the drugs in incorrect dosage, it is best to consult your veterinarian and get a prescription.
Besides medication, there are other measures you can take to provide your dog with the comfort he needs such as:
- Changing the diet
- Losing weight
- Warm environment
- Massaging joints and muscles
- Antioxidants and vitamins
- Accupuncture
- Exercise
Feeding high quality food, low in additives, improves your dog’s state of health. Giving up additives, soy, wheat, helps reduce the swelling of the joints.
If your dog is suffering from arthritis pain, you should make some changes in his living space. Make his food and water more accessible to him; put some access ramps so that he doesn’t have to climb the stairs, cover slippery surfaces with carpets.
Warmth works wonders for arthritis pain, so try to keep his bed warm; if need be put a bottle with warm water in the bed.
If your dog is used to staying outside, provide a warm shelter when the weather is wet and cold.
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Friday, July 15, 2016
Do You Have a First Aid Kit for Your Pet? Now You Can!
Learn what supplies you'll need to keep your cat, dog, or other pet safe and healthy.
Everyone who shares a home with a pet should have a basic pet first-aid kit on hand. Keep your pet's first-aid kit in your home and take it with you if you are traveling with your pet. One way to start your kit is to buy a first-aid kit designed for people and add pet-specific items to it. You can also purchase a pet first-aid kit from a pet-supply store.
But, like me you can easily assembly your own kit by gathering the items on the list below.
Everyone who shares a home with a pet should have a basic pet first-aid kit on hand. Keep your pet's first-aid kit in your home and take it with you if you are traveling with your pet. One way to start your kit is to buy a first-aid kit designed for people and add pet-specific items to it. You can also purchase a pet first-aid kit from a pet-supply store.
But, like me you can easily assembly your own kit by gathering the items on the list below.
- Pet first-aid book
- Phone Numbers - their veterinarian, nearest emergency vet clinic, poison control hotline
- Paperwork - In waterproof container have their rabies vaccination status, important medical records and a current photo of your pet
- Nylon Leash
- Self-cling bandage
- Muzzle or Strips of Cloth to prevent biting, do not use if your pet is vomiting
- Absorbent gauze pads
- Adhesive tape
- Antiseptic wipes, lotion, powder or spray
- Cotton balls or swabs
- Gauze rolls
- Hydrogen peroxide (to induce vomiting)
- Ice pack
- Non-latex disposable gloves
- Petroleum jelly (to lubricate thermometer)
- Rectal thermometer (your pet's temperature should not rise about 103 or fall below 100)
- Scissors (blunt end)
- Sterile non-stick gauze pads
- Sterile saline solution
- Tweezers
- A pillowcase to confine your cat for treatment
- A pet carrier
- Benadryl
- Ear-Cleaning solution
- Expired credit card or sample credit card to scrape away insect stingers
- Glucose paste or corn syrup for diabetic dogs or those with low blood sugar
- Nail clippers
- Non-prescription antibiotic ointment
- Penlight or flashlight
- Rubbing alcohol
- Splints and tongue depressors
- Styptic powder or pencil
- Temporary ID tag
- Towels
- Needle-nosed pliers
Tuesday, July 5, 2016
How to Care for Your Pet Bird
Get to know your bird - Birds are highly intelligent, social, demanding, so expect to have a close relationship with your bird. This relationship is important, it allows you to be able to assess her likes and dislikes, fears and safety zones. Also, it helps you detect if she/he is not feeling well.
Provide as much out-of-cage time as possible - Birds like humans don't like to be caged all the time. If you have the space, consider dedicating a room in your house as your bird's room so he/she has to spend as little time in their cage as possible. If a room isn't available, commit to having the bird out of the cage, in a safe, always supervised space, whenever possible when you're home.
Let your bird fly - Everything about a bird's physiology is designed for flight. They have wings, hollow bones, and specialized respiratory systems that allows them to use air differently than we do. Because they're prey species, they need flight as a means to feel safe and normal, so don't clip their wings.
Consider adopting more than one bird - Parrots and other birds kept as pets are flock animals. At a minimum they need a close relationship with you, but they'll thrive if they have a good relationship with another bird with whom they live.
Feed your birds well - Your bird should be eating very little see, it is fattening and not health-supporting in high quantities. Most birds should be on a diet of a high-quality, organic pellet and a variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, and grains.
Provide as much out-of-cage time as possible - Birds like humans don't like to be caged all the time. If you have the space, consider dedicating a room in your house as your bird's room so he/she has to spend as little time in their cage as possible. If a room isn't available, commit to having the bird out of the cage, in a safe, always supervised space, whenever possible when you're home.
Let your bird fly - Everything about a bird's physiology is designed for flight. They have wings, hollow bones, and specialized respiratory systems that allows them to use air differently than we do. Because they're prey species, they need flight as a means to feel safe and normal, so don't clip their wings.
Consider adopting more than one bird - Parrots and other birds kept as pets are flock animals. At a minimum they need a close relationship with you, but they'll thrive if they have a good relationship with another bird with whom they live.
Feed your birds well - Your bird should be eating very little see, it is fattening and not health-supporting in high quantities. Most birds should be on a diet of a high-quality, organic pellet and a variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, and grains.
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